TARAHUMARA PEOPLE

Many indigenous peoples had been living throughout the Sierra Madres - prior to the intervention of Europeans - among them, the Pimas, Varohíos, Tepehuanes, and, of course, the Rarámuris (Tarahumara). The Rarámuri, which means " those who walk correctly through life", form communities made of between five and twenty families living in relative proximity located in small valleys along streams. Some, however, continue to live quite isolated in caves or in small rustic cabins built on an occasional, rare plateau of the rugged mountains, generally surrounded by steep terrain. From the beginning of winter, they have been known to move great distances toward the lowland where the weather is better. When the Spanish began encroaching on the Tarahumara (a name given the Rarámuri by the Spanish) in Chihuahua, the shy natives retreated deeper and deeper into the inaccessible canyons of the Sierra Tarahumara in efforts to guard their privacy.

With the American and European discovery of rich minerals (silver and gold) in the canyons, the Tarahumara were forced once again to move into even more remote canyons. Even now, exact numbers are not known by Mexican census-takers (estimates are between 50,000 and 70,000), despite the ever-growing number of roads and trails bringing tourists into the celebrated region known as Copper Canyon.

The Rarámuri are world-famous for their ability to run long distances - many capable of running non-stop for over 20 hours. Their incredible great physical condition is a result of their adaptation to the most extreme situations in their natural environment. Healing, for the Tarahumara, has a magical-religious touch wherein they use a great variety of curative plants that are a rich legacy to modern medicine. Festivities are the vehicle through which the Tarahumara weave together mytho-religious celebration with social interaction. The basic elements of these celebrations are the dance and the "tesguinada" where the characteristic drink of tesguino (fermented corn) is offered to all.

The first Europeans to decidedly follow the Tarahumara into these canyons were the Jesuit missionaries with their obvious goal of conversion. While this goal can be considered only marginally successful, today's Semana Santa ceremony that culminates the Tarahumara traditional Easter celebration is evidence of the blending of Spanish Catholic and Mayan religious motifs. Other evidence of cultural blending Is evident in the Tarahumara of today, who sell their crafts on the streets of towns and villages known to attract tourists. Many of these natives have exchanged their traditional colorful shirt and white cloth wraparound pants for Western clothing. Tarahumara will not trade, however, their huaraches for Western footwear. Women continue to wear the beautifully colorful wide, scalloped skirts and loose, floral-printed blouses. Often bright ribbons will be plaited into their long braids for celebratory gatherings such as the tesquinado.

Corn is the staple of Tarahumara farming and diet, with beans, chilis, potatoes and apples adding to their diet. They also have an astoundingly accurate and formidable knowledge of flora and herbal foods, curatives and medicinals.

The Tarahumara's religiosity and desire for privacy should be respected by visitors to their homeland. While hiking or horseback riding through their lands or near the caves and simple log structures in which they live, being respectful and quiet when approaching, a kind greeting ( "Cuira" ) if eye contact is made, and refraining from photo-taking without permission will go a long way in comforting these lovely people in this age of transition.

To meet and to know a Rarámuri, to greet and be greeted with a softly-spoken " Cuira," to gently pass palms over one another's and have one's very soul gazed into by intensely kind and affectionate eyes when passing on the trail . . . is an experience into the noble conscience of the people who share their sierras with the itinerant traveler. It is a moment galvanized into memory, and alone, worth the visit to the Sierra Tarahumaras.